• Brit


Okay, here we go! This table was seriously very easy to make. It's all about gluing and screwing with a little bit of measuring and checking with the level in between. So let's get right to it!

Here's what you'll need:


  1. Seven 12 inch round pine edge-glued boards

  2. Eight 15 inch round pine edge-glued boards

  3. One 36 inch round pine edge-glued board

  4. Construction adhesive

  5. White paintable caulk

  6. 1 5/8 inch wood screws

  7. Quart of high gloss paint


  1. Caulk gun

  2. Drill - I really want this one!

  3. Tape measure

  4. Pencil

  5. Level

  6. Paint brush

  7. Furniture paint roller kit

Center + Measure:

The picture above is of one of the 15 inch rounds with a 12 inch round on top because I didn't want to build a whole new table for this post. I'm still kicking myself for not documenting it as I built the table in the first place! However, this gives you the basic idea of what needs to be done.

Start with the 36 inch round first and put the topside down. Use the tape measure to find the center point of the round, which should be at 18 inches. Since you'll be gluing and screwing a 15 inch round to the bottom of the table top, you'll want to measure 7.5 inches out from the center point in a few spots to give yourself a good idea of where the first 15 inch round should sit. If you have the 15 inch round centered, you should be able to measure from the edge of the 15 inch round to the edge of the 36 inch round all the way around (like what I'm doing above) and have the distance be about 10.5 inches.

Trace, Glue, + Screw:

Once you've centered the first 15 inch round in the middle of the table top, trace all the way around it with a pencil to mark your spot. Set it aside and add the construction adhesive evenly in the middle of the circle you've drawn on the underside of the table top. Don't put too much or it will seep out the sides! After you add the glue, place the 15 inch round back in the middle of the table top and push down on it, ensuring it stays within the lines.

Next, you can add the first set of screws. Make sure they're evenly spaced. Once you have the first 15 inch piece of the table base attached to the underside of the table top, you'll add the first 12 inch round to it by centering it; measuring around the edges to ensure it's centered; and tracing around it to mark your spot. The measurement from the edge of the 12 inch round to the edge of the 15 inch round below it should be about 1.5 inches all the way around. Then it's just a matter of gluing and screwing again!

Although the length of the screws makes it unlikely you'll screw into the head of one of the screws on a lower level, you'll want to alternate your screw patterns just to be safe, like you can see I've done in the pictures above. It doesn't matter if you make a square on the first set or a straight line as long as you stick with your pattern and alternate as you go.

Keep It Level:

When you measure all the way around the edge of the 12 inch round to the edge of the 15 inch round below it, you're basically ensuring that it's centered and will be in line with all of the other 12 inch rounds that make up part of the table base. To ensure all of the 15 inch rounds are in line with each other and you don't end up with something like the Leaning Tower of Pisa, you'll want to use your level.

First, you'll add construction adhesive to the 12 inch round and then you'll push the next 15 inch round down on top of it. You'll have a minute to use the level all the way around the edge to ensure it's in line with the 15 inch rounds below it before you add your next set of screws. After it's attached, you'll just repeat what you've already done until you've used up all of the pieces.

Caulk + Paint:

As you can see from the picture of the finished base above, I didn't start with the table top first, but I should have! I made the base and used construction adhesive only to attach the top, but the steps I've outlined above will make it faster and more secure.

Once, you have all of the pieces attached together, you'll want to use paintable caulk to fill all the cracks between the pieces. Otherwise, it won't look solid. When I caulk, I always lay down a continuous bead on the crack I'm filling and then wipe it smooth with a baby wipe. I've found baby wipes to be crucial to a good finished look. Just using your finger or a wet paper towel makes it more difficult and time consuming to get a smooth finish IMHO. Lastly, use your paint brush to apply the paint in the recessed areas and your mini foam roller to paint the top and underside of the tabletop. I will say that it's bled through the paint a bit where the knots in the wood are located, so you might want to use a primer on those first. Totally up to you!

There ya go! Enjoy your new coffee table! Make sure to tag me if you replicate my idea and share it - I'd love to see what you create! Thanks for reading!


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